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How to Oil Cleanse Your Face: A Simple Guide to the Oil Cleansing Method

  • Writer: Dr. Stephanie Bartolotti
    Dr. Stephanie Bartolotti
  • Jul 3, 2018
  • 5 min read

Updated: 6 days ago

Putting oil on your face to clean it sounds a little backwards.


For years, we were taught that oil was the enemy of clear skin. Scrub it away. Strip it off.


Find the cleanser that makes your face feel squeaky clean.


As it turns out, your skin isn't a kitchen countertop.


The natural oils in your skin are an important part of your skin barrier, and cleansing doesn't need to leave your face feeling tight, dry, or stripped to be effective.


Oil cleansing is a simple skincare method that uses an oil or oil-based cleanser to help dissolve makeup, sunscreen, excess sebum, and other oil-soluble debris before gently wiping or rinsing it away.


For the right skin type, it can be a lovely addition to a simple skincare routine.



What Is Oil Cleansing?


The oil cleansing method involves massaging an oil-based product onto dry skin and then removing it with water, a soft damp cloth, or a second gentle cleanser.


You've probably heard the phrase "like dissolves like." That's the basic idea behind oil cleansing. Oils can help loosen oil-soluble products on the skin, which is why cleansing oils are particularly good at removing makeup and water-resistant sunscreen.


Oil cleansing can be used as your primary cleanser or as the first step in a double-cleansing routine.


And no, your face does not need to feel squeaky afterward.


I actually prefer that it doesn't.


Who Might Like Oil Cleansing?


Oil cleansing tends to appeal to people whose skin feels dry, tight, or irritated after traditional cleansing. It can also be helpful if you wear makeup or sunscreen that is difficult to remove with a gentle water-based cleanser alone.


However, skincare is highly individual. An oil that works beautifully for one person's skin may feel too heavy or cause irritation for someone else.


If you're particularly acne-prone, I'd be more selective about the products you use rather than assuming that any natural oil belongs on your face.


"Natural" and "perfect for your skin" are not always the same thing.


How to Oil Cleanse


Start with dry hands and a dry face. Apply a small amount of your cleansing oil and gently massage it over your skin for about 30 to 60 seconds, paying particular attention to areas where you're wearing makeup or sunscreen.


Next, wet a soft washcloth with warm—not hot—water and gently remove the oil without aggressively rubbing or scrubbing the skin.


You can stop there if your skin feels clean and comfortable.


If you're using oil cleansing primarily to remove makeup or sunscreen, you may prefer to follow with a gentle water-based cleanser. This is commonly called double cleansing.


Pat your skin dry and follow with the rest of your normal skincare routine.


Simple.


Your skincare routine does not need 17 steps to qualify as self-care.


What Oils Can You Use for Oil Cleansing?


You can purchase a formulated cleansing oil designed specifically for the face, which is often the easiest option because these products are designed to emulsify and rinse away with water.


Some people prefer using a simple plant oil. Jojoba and sunflower seed oil are popular choices because they tend to feel relatively lightweight on the skin.


Whichever option you choose, start simply. I wouldn't begin by mixing five different oils and a handful of essential oils together.


Your face doesn't need a chemistry experiment.


Patch testing a new product first is also a good idea, particularly if you have sensitive or reactive skin.


Should You Use Castor Oil?


Castor oil became incredibly popular with the original DIY oil cleansing method, and you'll still find plenty of recipes online recommending mixtures of castor oil and other carrier oils.


Personally, I don't think you need castor oil to oil cleanse.


It has a much thicker consistency than many other oils and may feel drying or irritating to some skin types. If you want to try it, I would use a small amount blended into another oil rather than assuming that more castor oil will somehow provide a "deeper cleanse."


More aggressive isn't always better when it comes to skin.


What About Essential Oils?


I would skip adding essential oils simply to make your cleansing oil smell nice.


Essential oils are highly concentrated, and facial skin can be sensitive. Fragrance is not necessary for a cleansing oil to do its job.


Lavender may smell lovely, but your skin does not require aromatherapy while you're removing mascara.


Keep it simple.


Does Oil Cleansing Cause "Purging"?


This is one skincare myth I would love to retire.


If you start oil cleansing and suddenly develop significant breakouts, don't automatically assume your skin is "detoxing."


Your skin doesn't need to push toxins out through a breakout because you changed cleansers.


Sometimes a new skincare product simply doesn't agree with your skin.


A few changes when starting a new routine don't necessarily mean something is wrong, but persistent clogged pores, redness, itching, burning, or worsening acne are reasons to reconsider the product you're using.


Listening to your skin is more useful than trying to push through a supposed detox period.


Dr. Stephanie's Tip: Your skin should feel comfortable after you wash it.

If your face feels so tight after cleansing that smiling suddenly feels like facial exercise, your cleanser or cleansing routine may be too aggressive.


I tend to favor skincare that supports the skin rather than constantly stripping, scrubbing, peeling, and fighting with it.


Healthy skin has a barrier for a reason.


Treat it nicely.


Oil Cleansing and Healthy Aging


As we age, skin often becomes naturally drier and may produce less sebum. Hormonal changes during perimenopause and menopause can make those changes even more noticeable.


This is one reason the cleanser that worked perfectly in your twenties may suddenly leave your skin feeling dry or tight in your forties and fifties.


A gentler cleansing routine can become particularly important during this stage of life. For some women, an oil-based cleanser can be an easy way to remove makeup and sunscreen without leaving the skin feeling stripped.


This also fits into the way I approach natural beauty in my practice. Whether we're talking about skincare, nutrition, hydration, or cosmetic acupuncture, my goal isn't to fight aging.


It's to support healthy skin as it changes.


Simple Skincare Is Often Better


Oil cleansing doesn't need to be complicated.


Choose a gentle product that agrees with your skin, massage it onto dry skin, remove it gently, and pay attention to how your skin responds.


You don't need an elaborate DIY recipe or a bathroom cabinet filled with products to take good care of your skin.


Sometimes the simplest routines are the ones we actually stick with.


And your skin generally appreciates consistency much more than the latest 12-step skincare trend.

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Perimenopause Food Therapy Guide by Dr. Stephanie Bartolotti

Not Sure What to Eat in Perimenopause?

Discover your Chinese medicine pattern and learn how to eat for it with my 132-page Perimenopause Food Therapy Guide—including food lists, shopping guides, lifestyle recommendations, and 30 macro-balanced recipes.

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